From Hanoi to Hoi An = Foodie Heaven
I’ve recently returned from a 2-week stint in Vietnam, a country full to the brim with food satisfaction. Around every turn, on every street corner is the aroma of fresh food like the scent of herbs lingering in steam rising from industrial soup pots. But just quietly indoors, a fusion food phenomena is brewing. You can enjoy the classic taste sensation of Pho Bo (beef soup) from the comfort of a tiny plastic chair perched uncomfortably close to the gurgling stenchy stuff in the gutter (and really, this is a must!). Alternatively, you can now also pop into quite a few fine dining establishments, ranging from traditional Vietnamese food done inventively well, to French/Chinese/Japanese and even, Latin American influenced food. I didn’t have a lot of time to go back to many places, but here are a few of my favourites, that I would happily return to, again and again.
Installment 1: Foodstuffs from Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) City
Quan An Ngon
My best dining experience in Ho Chi Minh City was to be found here. On arrival I noted that the line was long enough to prove that this was a place worth coveting. The interior runs along the lines of what I think of as Balinese architectural principles, the idea of bringing the indoors outdoors, and the outdoors indoors, merging the hard distinction between interior/exterior that is so common in the European tradition. From the vantage point of a low stool and table, I noticed that quite a few fans were spreading around the regular short puffs of water spray, helping to cool the clientele on a steamy Saigon day. The real treat though, is not sticking to your seat and people watching (though that is always fun). No, it’s food watching! Guests are invited to take a stroll around the perimeter of the garden to have a first-hand peak at the gastronomical delights being whipped up by various cooks who are operating hawker style. Fresh soups, rice noodles, stir-frys, rice paper rolls, pancakes, even those drinks with ‘healthy’ jelly in them are all in various stages of creation. Taking the walk really helps with deciding what to choose from the menu and it’s just such a fun thing to do. This place is vibrant, alive with smells and sensations, and when the food arrives it’s no let down. Expect to find the classic dishes, and many more with a subtle twist. I stuck to a clear soup, with pork and rice crackers because my stomach was still revolting on my first day in Vietnam (actually, I think I was sick from the plane food on the way over, oh, the irony). But I watched, enviously, and with a strong tinge of nauseau, as my travel companions tucked into some great rice paper rolls, bbq-ed bits and those fresh Vietnamese salads. Highly recommended, even from the queasy one.
The Rex Hotel
The Rex Hotel is a wonderful relic, leftover from the French colonial heyday in Vietnam. Inside, it’s decked out in old-world charm and anthropological artefacts (the foyer almost feels like a museum). But technically, I didn’t eat here. The main attraction was escaping the heat with a quick dip in the pool (guests not staying in the hotel are permitted entry, as long as an entry fee is paid) followed up by a cocktail from the cosy confines of the rooftop bar. It’s a welcome oasis, best enjoyed at the end of a long day of getting lost wandering around the busy, noisy city streets. You can still hear the unrelentless chorus of horns bleeping well into the night, but it’s nice to kick back anyway, knowing that for now, the busyness can wait.
Me at the Rex's rooftop bar
Special mention: Those yummo banana’s on a stick
The perfect accompaniment in the afternoon heat – ice cold (real) banana on a stick, covered in frozen coconut cream with a smattering of nuts on the outer layer. Just too good to be true. Here’s a shot of Annie enjoying herself with the tasty treat…
Next up: Hanoi!
Filed under: foodie heaven, many wanderings | 1 Comment
Tags: food, ho chi minh city, travel, vietnam
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